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My horse has been diagnosed with arthritis. Is there anything I can do to help relieve the symptoms?
If your horse has been diagnosed with arthritis it means that one or more of its joints are inflamed. In the early stages this could manifest itself as a swelling in the joint and lameness. In some cases the horse is stiff as he comes out of the stable then improves as he moves about, although this is not always the case. Arthritis is a very complex condition that often starts with cartilage being damaged in the joint. In the more advanced stages, the cartilage can be worn down and the bone around the joint proliferates, which can reduce the range of motion of the joint and cause pain as the joint moves. Arthritis can arise for a variety of reasons. Believe it or not horses can develop arthritis at any age, so do not rule it out as a cause of lameness just because your horse is young.
If your horse has been diagnosed with arthritis, your vet will be able to discuss the best way to treat the condition. In many cases this will involve placing medication, such as a steroid injection, straight into the affected joint. In other instances ant-inflammatory drugs given orally may be indicated. Regular exercise or turn out is beneficial, although be guided by your horse and if he is lame do not try to “push through it” without first talking to your vet. There is evidence that the use of supplements containing chondroitin and glucosamine may be effective in protecting the cartilage from damage, especially in the early stages of arthritis. With joint supplements it is wise to take advice from your vet as some formulations are poorly absorbed by the horse’s gut. It is worth noting that glucosamine/chondroitin supplements are NOT a quick fix. In general they take 6-8 weeks to get into the system at high enough levels to have effects and have an ongoing protective action that may not be obvious in the early stages. With continued use, however, you should start to see an improvement in your horse’s condition.
How often should I worm my horse?
Worms in horses can lead to a variety of problems including weight loss, diarrhoea, and even colic. This is particularly a problem in younger horses where high worm burdens can block the gut leading to colic . How often you worm your horse really does depend on your situation. It really is worthwhile formulating a worming plan tailor-made to your horse. This is because the incorrect use of wormers is partly responsible for the development of resistance in worms to wormers. This is a real worry to horse owners and vets alike.
Different wormers have varying intervals between the treatment times from 8-12 weeks in general. It is normally advisable to worm against tapeworm once or twice a year in spring and/or autumn. It is advisable to use a different class of wormer each year and rotate this on a 3 year pattern. Your vet can advise you on the most appropriate worming plan for your horse. We should not just rely on wormers to solve the problem. Management should be the key to preventing worm burdens building up on your paddock and therefore in your horse. This includes regular dung removal and rotation of paddocks to leave one to rest for at least 6 months and ideally 12 months. In addition try not to over-graze your paddocks.
Twice yearly worm egg counts performed on your horse’s fresh dung will also give you an idea as to how infested your horse is, and how effective your worming programme has been. A worm egg count is a good way of determining whether your horse is burdened with adult, egg-producing worms. But it will NOT detect immature worms your horse may have, even if this is a large number. So, although a zero or low worm egg count is encouraging, a second one should be performed later in the year to confirm this. It is also worth noting that worm egg counts on dung will NOT detect tapeworm, which requires a blood test to determine an infestation. This can be done by your vet , otherwise it is advisable to routinely worm against tapeworm as mentioned previously.
Wormers are available through your vet or veterinary pharmacist, without needing a prescription . They must be sold by a Suitably Qualified Person trained to give advice about worming your horse. If you do have any queries, however, it is best to ask your vet.
My horse coughs in the stable, what could be causing this?
Firstly, if your horse is coughing it is important that you seek immediate veterinary advice. There are a number of conditions which cause a cough and all will require veterinary intervention. If your horse seems under the weather it is possible that he has a viral or bacterial infection of the upper airways (throat and windpipe) or the lungs and bronchi (lower airways). This will require veterinary attention, and he may need antibiotics to treat a chest infection. Vets often recommend giving a vitamin tonic in the feed following a viral or bacterial infection as a “pick-me-up.”
If your horse is otherwise bright and well but has a dry cough he may be suffering from an allergy. This is commonly associated with fungal spores in hay or bedding but can also be caused by pollen in the spring and summer. This will need to be accurately diagnosed by your vet, often by passing an endoscope (small camera) down your horse’s windpipe and taking samples of the fluid in his windpipe or lungs. If he is diagnosed with an allergic airway disease he may well need medication to settle things down. This can be in the form of inhaled drugs (much like human asthma treatment) or oral medications to help him breath more easily.
You can greatly improve his condition by managing his environment. Stables should be cleaned out thoroughly, clearing away cobwebs that collect dust. His bedding should ideally be low in dust, such as paper, shavings or rubber matting. You should feed dust-free hay or haylage. Hay should be soaked thoroughly for at least 30 minutes to allow any fungal spores to swell enough to be swallowed rather than inhaled. If too much hay is fed, the excess may dry out again and so the spores dry out and can be inhaled once more. The aim should be to AVOID the cause of the allergy, so turn your horse out as much as possible if the stable is the problem. However, if he has a pollen allergy, its best to stay in, particularly when the pollen count is high. There are a number of supplements on the market that may help a horse with an allergy. As in human asthma, it is believed that specific anti-oxidants in feed may help prevent damage to the lungs caused by the allergy. Finally, be sure that you DO NOT EXERCISE your horse if he is coughing. This can lead to more severe lung damage no matter what the cause.
How often should I get my horses teeth checked?
Horses teeth are constantly erupting and so rely on the chewing action to keep them in shape. If the teeth are uneven, sharp points can develop on the cheek side of the upper teeth and tongue side of the teeth in the lower jaw. These sharp points can cause ulceration of the cheeks and tongue, schooling problems and even difficult y in eating.
As a routine, your horse should have its teeth checked every 6-12 months. They may or may not need rasping to remove sharp points, but it is also important to check for loose or broken teeth and dental tooth root abscesses. Sometimes the first sign that a horse has dental problems will be an unwillingness to work on the bit or on one rein. As the teeth get sharper it may be reluctant to accept the bit in its mouth and in severe cases will have difficulty chewing (“quidding”) – particularly hay. As an owner you may found spat-out balls of hay outside the stable door and this is a tell-tale sign of dental problems!
Ideally get your horses teeth checked by a veterinary surgeon or a qualified equine dental technician (EDT). A list of these can be found on the British Equine Veterinary Association website. www.beva.org.uk
Does my pony have laminitis?
Laminitis is a very painful condition affecting the sensitive structures in the hooves- the laminae. Horses or ponies with laminitis will often look in pain. With severe laminitis they may be blowing hard or even shaking. They will be reluctant to move or lift their feet and may be leaning back on their hindquarters in an effort to take the weight off their front feet. Milder cases may show as a “pottery” action, particularly on hard ground and on the turn. Although laminitis commonly affects overweight ponies on grass, do not be lulled into a false sense of security as ANY horse or pony can develop laminitis, regardless of their weight or management. This is because laminitis can be caused by a number of underlying conditions, not just over-eating grass.
If you have any suspicion your horse has laminitis PLEASE CALL YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY. Laminitis is a true equine emergency. The quick actions in calling a vet may well save your pony. Do not attempt to walk your horse around if it is in pain. If your horse is in a stable, keep him confined and put down a deep bed right to the door. Shavings or sand is the best as it conforms to the soles of the feet and helps distribute the pressure over the entire sole.
Your vet will be able to give you more advice as to the treatment of laminitis. This may include pain-killers, farriery techniques and even possibly treatment for any underlying cause of the laminitis. If your horse needs to have a restricted diet, you may want to feed a good vitamin supplement to ensure he is getting all the nutrients he requires.
How often should I worm my sheep?
Traditionally it was thought that grazing lambs needed to be wormed every 3 weeks. However this has been proven to be unnecessary and due to the increasing prevalence of worms that are resistant to anthelmintics (wormers) it is no longer recommended to worm this frequently as constantly administering wormer when it is not needed encourages the survival of worms that are resistant to chemicals. Similarly adult sheep do not need to be wormed as often as previously thought and most farmers will worm once or twice a year depending on their knowledge of problems on the farm or as a result of worm egg counts found by faecal sampling.
The ‘gold standard’ is to take faecal samples from your sheep that are then analysed by your vet to check for the number of worm eggs present in them. Depending on the number and species of egg found and the time of year and weather conditions your vet will then be able to advise you if it is necessary to worm the sheep, and what would be the best product to use. This process will save you time and money in unnecessary treatments.
Remember that there are many causes of diarrhoea in sheep other than worms and again your vet will be able to advise you on this if another causal agent is identified in the faeces. Also not all gut worms cause diarrhoea and so you should take regular faecal samples for analysis even if there are no physical signs of gut worms being present in the sheep.
Discuss with your vet whether it would be preferable to take individual or pooled samples for analysis. Either way the easiest way to get a faecal sample from a sheep is when the animal gets up from lying down as they usually deposit droppings at this time.
How long do I wait before examining a lambing ewe that has not yet produced any lambs?
The majority of pregnancies in sheep last from 146 to 148 days although the normal range is between 140 and 150 days. Signs of impending lambing include the udder filling up with colostrum, and the ewe taking more interest in other new born lambs. Once uterine contractions begin the ewe will tend to take herself away from the rest of the flock and may start to look uncomfortable, scratching around her chosen lambing spot, getting up and down frequently and licking her lips. Once her cervix has opened due to hormonal changes, and the uterine contractions have moved the lamb into position in the pelvic canal the ewe is stimulated to start actively contracting her abdominal muscles to aid the process. The first thing you will see is the ‘water bag’ appearing at the vulva. However if the ‘waterbag’ has already burst you may just notice that the ewe has a wet tail. Most ewes will now proceed for a few more pushes and produce their lambs with no outside aid, and the lambs will be up and searching for a teat to suckle within around 20-30 minutes.
It must be remembered that any unwarranted interference with this natural process could jeopardise the ewe-lamb bond and thus the lamb’s chances of survival, and also that first time lambers will take longer to undergo the birthing process. However it is also important to be able to recognise when a ewe is not able to produce the lambs without any assistance. Instances when outside assistance are likely to be required include:
- The ewe has been actively straining her abdominal muscles for an hour with no sign of a lamb at the vulva;
- Part of a lamb has been visible at the vulva for 20-30 minutes but the ewe is making no progress or has given up.
- The ewe has been restless for a long period but is not straining, or has a wet or bloodstained rear end but there is no sign of a lamb.
Do my sheep or cattle need a mineral lick?
This will depend on many things including the type of soil on the farm, the pasture that is being grazed, the animals that are grazing it and the time of year and weather conditions. There are many different licks on the market and they are produced for different reasons.
This is really a matter to discuss with your vet as this may not be a necessity for your particular farm. If you are concerned that your animals may be lacking in some minerals then your vet will be able to help by analysing blood samples. It is also necessary to remember that a lick may not be the best way to get the relevant minerals or vitamins into the animals.
What is the best way to treat mastitis?
You will need to discuss with your vet which antibiotic drugs they recommend that you use to treat the mastitis. Antibiotics may be administered by injection into the animal’s muscle or by intra-mammary tube directly into the udder, or by both routes. You may need to continue using these drugs for several days – ensure you complete the course of treatment at the dose that your vet has prescribed to maximise the chance of achieving a complete cure. The vet may also recommend that you use an anti-inflammatory drug to reduce the swelling and damage in the udder.
You can also aid the prognosis by stripping out the affected teat at least twice a day and providing the animal with access to clean water and good quality forage to encourage it to keep eating. You may also wish to use an udder cream to massage into the udder to keep the animal as comfortable as possible.
My animals have had one dose of a vaccine but are now out at grass and not easy to gather up – do they really need to have the 2nd dose?
YES!! If the primary vaccine course consists of 2 doses of vaccine you must administer both doses at the recommended interval for the vaccine to be effective. Using only one dose of a 2 dose course is likely to be a waste of time and money and will not be protective against disease. Also ensure that you give the correct volume of vaccine at the correct site as cleanly as possible to avoid injection reactions. Remember to store the vaccine as directed to ensure that it will work effectively.
What are the signs of bluetongue?
This is a notifiable disease. If you are in any doubt that your animals may have bluetongue please ring your vet.
Signs in cattle and sheep are variable and could be similar to other diseases.
Signs in sheep can include:
- difficulty breathing or panting,
- redness of lips, muzzle and ears,
- high temperature,
- non-specific illness,
- ulcers in the mouth,
- swollen tongue,
Signs in cattle can include:
- ulcers in the mouth,
- hypersensitivity to sights and sounds,
- non-specific illness.
My dog is scratching, what could the cause be?
By far the most common cause of itchiness in dogs is parasites and the most common parasite is the flea. Fleas are small, black insects which feed by biting the dog and sucking their blood. They cannot fly but can jump huge distances which is how they spread between pets. Another parasite which is less common than fleas but can cause intense itching is the scabies mite. (Most commonly known as fox mange.)
It is not always easy to tell if a pet has fleas, they are not often seen as they will only jump on to feed, spending the rest of their time in the immediate environment (which is usually your home). However, you can often spot flea dirt in your pet's coat, it looks like small, black flecks of soil. If you comb these out and dampen them with water, they will go red. Fleas only eat blood so all they pass is blood, which when dry looks black but turns a reddy-brown once wet. It is very difficult to identify the scabies mite as it lives under the skin.
The best way to treat for any parasite is to use a product from your vet and the most convenient for surface parasites are the spot-on preparations. It is important to use veterinary ones rather than those available 'over-the-counter' as they are much more effective and some will kill fleas before they even bite your pet, vital for those very sensitive to them. Also, only veterinary spot-ons are effective against Scabies.
95% of the flea lifecycle occurs away from your pet. Only the adult fleas jump on to feed but their eggs and larvae will be developing in the immediate environment, which is often your home. So, it is important to treat not only your pet but the house as well. There are spays available for this and most have a duration of action of 12 months.
How often should I worm my pet?
All pets are vulnerable to picking up worms, even 100% indoor cats, as worm infestations can be passed by fleas. As a minimum cats and dogs should be wormed every 3 months but some individuals will benefit from being wormed more frequently. Cats who are hunters should be wormed on a monthly basis, especially through the summer when their prey is plentiful. Dogs who scavenge a lot on walks are also likely to pick up worms easily and so should be wormed monthly. Also, for any pet who has close and regular contact with children, monthly worming treatment is a good idea as worms pass easily between animals and children and they can be very harmful.
The best place to buy wormers is either from your vet or, with a prescription from a vet, from an reputable internet pharmacy. The cheaper ones available from pet shops or supermarkets are not as effective. It is also worth noting that all pet wormers only have a 'flushing out' effect, meaning that they are active for about 24 hours while they kill all the worms present but then their effect fades. This is why more frequent worming is advisable in pets who are at risk, as they are more likely to become quickly reinfected.
Thanks to Cat Henstridge BVSc MRCVS
I have just bought a new puppy, what should I do now?
Firstly, congratulations on your new arrival! Getting a puppy is a really exciting time and you will have a lot of fun. There are a lot of things to think about when a dog is young and it can seem challenging, especially to a new owner, to get it all right.
The most important thing for a young pup is for it to have its vaccinations. There are two vaccines given, two to four weeks apart. They start at eight weeks old and don't finish until ten to twelve weeks. It is important that the same make of vaccines is used for each injection, which is not normally an issue unless the pup has already had a jab before it came to you. The vaccines are also an excellent opportunity to have the pup checked over by a vet and for you to ask any questions you may have.
All pups should be wormed monthly from the age of twelve weeks to six months. You must use a veterinary standard wormer and make sure the pup is weighed before each dose, as they grow the amount they need will change. They should also be regularly treated against fleas, again it is important to use a veterinary product. Pups are vulnerable to parasites because their curious natures mean they are more likely to pick them up and they can cause more damage than in an adult dog because their immune systems are not as strong.
This is also a good time to think about insuring your new pet, before anything goes wrong! Your vet will be an excellent source of advice about this and be able to guide you towards the best type of policy for you. Another thing to chat to the vet about is microchipping the pup. Microchips are inserted using a simple needle and are a permanent identification of your dog. Getting it done before they go out and about is a very good idea, as it can take some young dogs a while before they learn to come when they are called!
What should I feed my rabbit?
In our clinics, a large proportion of the problems we see in rabbits can be related to an incorrect diet, so getting it right is very important.
80% of a rabbits diet should be good quality hay, every day they should eat a pile of hay as big as they are; they should be nibbling on it all the time. This is vital, not only to maintain good gut health but also to keep the teeth properly ground down. Rabbits have teeth which grow continually and if they are not kept in shape by the tough stems of the hay and other vegetation, they can become over-long and cause painful problems.
The rest of a rabbits diet should consist of a small amount of fresh vegetables every day, a handful is more than enough, and no more than a tablespoon of rabbit food. It is important to keep these to a minimum as while they are important for a balanced diet, too much cause problems. Diarrhoea can occur if the rabbit eats too rich a diet as their guts are designed to be digesting plain food like hay and grass. However, the most common, and important, problem is that these foods do not have the same grinding effect on the teeth as they hay. Also, avoid feeding the 'muesli' type rabbit foods. Many rabbits will pick out and only eat their favourite bits, which can cause them to be nutritionally deficient. A better choice is the all pelleted food, but again, ensure it is offered in only minimal amounts.
My older pet is drinking more, is there a problem?
There are several diseases we see in older pets which will cause them to drink more and urinate more, in fact it is often one of the first symptoms an owner notices.
There are two ways to tell if a pet is drinking an abnormally large amount of water. The first is to measure their average water intake over a few days and calculate how much they are taking in over a 24 hour period. A normal animal should drink 50ml of water per kilo of body weight per day. Anything over this may indicate a problem and you should contact your vet. The second way to tell is to take a urine sample to your vet, they will be able to run some quick, simple tests which will let them know if there is a problem or not. If there are any abnormalities then your vet is likely to advise they take blood samples.
Another excellent way to monitor the health of an older pet, is to weigh them regularly. In cats especially they will often lose weight when they are poorly but in such a slow and gradual way it is often not noticed until there has been a significant loss.
Thanks to Cat Henstridge BVSc MRCVS
My older dog seems stiff, what could be the problem?
By far the most common problem to cause stiffness and lameness in older dogs is arthritis. It is a very variable condition which can range from the dog just being a bit when they get up after a snooze to an obvious lameness in one or more legs. It usually gets worse over time and can be difficult to diagnose in its early stages as dogs hide the symptoms very well. In fact, it is often only when you treat arthritis do you realise how bad the pain was in the first place.
There are various ways of treating arthritis and you should always contact your vet for advice. For more advanced cases there are several different medications available but for milder cases, or just older dogs who seem a bit stiff joint supplements can work very well. They are also helpful when used alongside medications as they often reduce the doses required. The three main supplements are Omega 3 fatty acids, Glucosamine and Chondroitin. All are available in pet specific formulas and can be obtained without a prescription.
Thanks to Cat Henstridge BVSc MRCVS
I have my completed prescription, what do I do now?
Your vet will probably do this for you. Just pass your printed prescription (from this site) to your vet and ask him to sign it and complete it. If he is affiliated with us, he will be able to verify the prescription over the phone and get your order dispatched quicker. He will need to send us the paper copy also. Otherwise he can fax it (to 01837 53992) or email it (to firstname.lastname@example.org) to us.
If your vet passes the prescription back to you to send to us, you will need to fax or email it to us to get your order sent out, but we also legally need the paper copy sent by post. So please get in touch by calling us or using the contact us option on the right if you are having problems.
I got a prescription emailed to me with my order, what do I need to do now?
Your vet will be able to give you a prescription for your animal, provided that the animal is under his/her care. This means your vet has been able to clinically assess or physically examine the animal, either immediately prior to giving the prescription, or recently enough to have sufficient knowledge of the animal’s condition in order to prescribe a drug for it.
How do I get a prescription?
Your vet will be able to complete your prescription for your animal, provided that the animal is under his/her care. This means your vet has been able to clinically assess or physically examine the animal, either immediately prior to giving the prescription, or recently enough to have sufficient knowledge of the animal’s condition in order to prescribe a drug for it.
What drugs require a prescription from my vet?
There are a number of abbreviations that describe how a drug may be supplied, and whether supply of a drug requires a veterinary prescription or not. If you see the abbreviation POM-V on a medicine, this indicates that it is a Prescription Only Medicine that may only be supplied once it has been prescribed by a veterinary surgeon. The vet can only prescribe such drugs following a clinical assessment of the animal or group of animals under that veterinary surgeon’s care. These drugs are categorised as such because generally they require the specialised knowledge of a vet for their use. Quite often they can be dangerous if used inappropriately or at an incorrect dose rate and so by classifying them as “prescription-only” the Government can ensure a high level of professional control of their use.
Medicines that are "POM-V" include:
Some worm and flea treatments
How long is my prescription valid for?
Generally prescriptions are valid for 6 months from the date that they were signed. This is limited to 28 days for more potentially dangerous drugs, (Controlled Drugs listed in Schedules 2-4 of the Misuse of Drugs Regulations 2001). Your vet can let you know which drugs this applies to.
Your vet may alse decide to put a time limit on the prescription - make sure you check on the prescription, because if its past its expiry date, we can't dispense the medicine, and you will have to get a new one.
Can my prescription be repeated?
A prescription should only be dispensed once unless it states that it can be repeated, in which case the number of repeats stipulated will be written on the prescription.
For example, if it says
"1 box, 2 repeats"
That means we can dispense 1 box, 3 times.
Can I be prescribed more than one drug on a prescription?
Yes. The prescription can include as many items as are required to treat the animal in the prescribing vet’s opinion.
How often can my vet ask to see my animal in order to continue prescribing for it?
Are there any limits on how much of the drug I can be prescribed?
It is not good practice to carry excess medicines in stock. This is particularly important as your animal’s situation may change, requiring a different treatment plan, or your animal may have an adverse reaction to the drug supplied, which necessitates changing the drug used. In addition, some drugs have short shelf-lives so would require disposal of excess by your vet if it were to go out of date. In general, your vet will recommend a month’s supply at a time. This may be repeated on the prescription up to 5 times if required to give you a total of 6 months prescription.
Can my vet refuse to give me a prescription?
If your vet has examined your animal and recommended to treat the animal him/herself with a certain drug, then the rules are clear that he/she cannot refuse to supply you with a prescription for that drug. Vets can only prescribe for animals under their direct care and must have sufficient knowledge of the animals before prescribing.
Your vet may refuse to give you a prescription if he feels it is an inappropriate drug for the treatment of your animal’s condition.
Can my vet charge to write a prescription?
Yes. Since 31st October 2008 vets are allowed to charge “a reasonable fee” for writing prescriptions.
Can I use a prescription from another country?
Yes - from August 2011, we are able to dispense from prescriptions written by vets in the EU and Switzerland.
To be acceptable the prescription must:
1) Be signed by a vet who is registered in his/her country
2) Be for a medicine that is licensed in the country its going to be used in
3) Be dispatched to and used in the same country.
4) Be for a product licensed across the EU (i.e. one with an EU- prefix on the Marketing Authorisation Number). A list of EU-licensed medicines is below.
Its really helpful to us if your vet can write their Registration Number on the prescription below their name; and if you can let us know what languages we'll need if we need to call and check anything with them.
Some items cannot be sent by air (e.g. Advantage, Frontline, Advantix); these will be sent by Surface Mail and may take longer to arrive. You will be advised of estimated arrival times at checkout.
- Advocate Spot On For Large Cats
- Advocate Spot On For Large Dogs
- Advocate Spot On For Medium Dogs
- Advocate Spot On For Small Cats
- Advocate Spot On For Small Dogs less than 4kg
- Advocate Spot On For X-Large Dogs
- Bovilis BTV8
- Bovilis BTV8
- Cerenia Tablets 16 mg
- Cerenia Tablets 24mg
- Cerenia Tablets 60 mg
- Clomicalm 20mg Tablets
- Clomicalm 5mg Tablets
- Clomicalm 80mg Tablets
- Comfortis chewable tablets 1040mg
- Comfortis chewable tablets 1620mg
- Comfortis chewable tablets 270mg
- Comfortis chewable tablets 425mg
- Comfortis chewable tablets 665mg
- Convenia Injection 80 mg/ml
- Cortavance Spray For Dogs 76ml
- Draxin 100ml Injection
- Draxin 20ml Injection
- Draxxin Injection 50ml
- Easotic Suspension Ear Drops 10 ml
- Equilis Prequenza 5x1ml Syringe
- Equilis Prequenza 10x1ml Vial
- Equilis Prequenza TE 10X1ML Vials
- Equilis Prequenza TE 5X1ML Syringes
- Hiprabovis IBR Marker Live
- Incurin Tablets 1 mg
- Loxicom Injection Dogs/Cats 10 ml
- Loxicom Injection Dogs/Cats 20 ml
- Loxicom Oral Suspension 32 ml
- Loxicom Oral Suspension Cats 15 ml
- Meloxidyl Injection 5mg/ml
- Meloxidyl Oral Suspension 10 ml
- Meloxidyl Oral Suspension 100 ml
- Meloxidyl Oral Suspension 32 ml
- Meloxivet Oral Suspension for Dogs
- Meloxivet Oral Suspension for Dogs
- Meloxivet Oral Suspension for Dogs
- Meloxivet Oral Suspension for Small Dogs
- Metacam Chewable Tablets for Dogs 2.5mg
- Metacam Injectable Solution For Cows Pigs And Horses 100 ml
- Metacam Injectable Solution For Cows Pigs And Horses 20mg
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Cats 15 ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Cats 3ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Dogs 10 ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Dogs 100 ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Dogs 180 ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Dogs 32 ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Horses 100 ml
- Metacam Oral Suspension For Horses 250ml
- Onsior Dog Tablets 10mg
- Onsior Dog Tablets 20mg
- Onsior Dog Tablets 40mg
- Onsior Dog Tablets 5mg
- Palladia Tablets 10mg
- Palladia Tablets 15mg
- Palladia Tablets 50mg
- Prac-Tic Spot-On large dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On large dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On medium dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On medium dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On small dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On small dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On tiny dog
- Prac-Tic Spot-On tiny dog
- Previcox Tablets 227 mg
- Previcox Tablets 57 mg
- Prilactone Tablets 10 mg
- Prilactone Tablets 40 mg
- Prilactone Tablets 80 mg
- Profender Spot On large: 5 - 8 kg
- Profender Spot On Medium 2.5 - 5 kg
- Profender Spot On Medium: 2.5 - 5 kg
- Profender Spot On Medium: 2.5 - 5 kg
- Profender Spot On small: 0.5 - 2.5 kg
- ProMeris Duo Spot On for Dogs
- Stronghold For 10.1 - 20 kg Dogs 120 mg (red)
- Stronghold For 2.5-7.5kg Cats 45 mg (blue)
- Stronghold For 2.5-7.5kg Cats 45 mg (blue)
- Stronghold For 2.6-5kg 30 mg (violet)
- Stronghold For 20-40kg Dogs 240 mg (green)
- Stronghold For 5.1-10kg Dogs 60 mg (brown)
- Stronghold For up to 2.5kg Kittens & Puppies 15 mg (rose)
- Trocoxil Chewable Tablets for Dogs
- Zolvix Oral Solution for Sheep 1L
- Zolvix Oral Solution for Sheep 2.5L
- Zubrin Tablets 200 mg
Note, this list may be subject to change
Are there other sites I can visit about pets or vets?
Supreme Pet Foods - www.supremepetfoods.com - Whether rabbits or guinea pigs, from hamsters to gerbils - every species of small pet has its own particular nutrition requirements. Supreme Pet Foods’ products are all specially designed to meet the unique needs of each species of small animal.
What's this Free Weekend Shipping all about? And what's the catch?
Its about Free Shipping! On some, specified, weekends, we offer Free Shipping for most orders.
Is is available on every order?
Not quite - there's a minimum order value of £20.00 - that covers 90% of our products!
For a few of our heavier products, the minimum order size is £49.00.
Is it available for every product?
Again, not quite - there are a handful of product lines it's not available - but over 95% of all our products are eligible for Free Shipping!
How fast is it?
Free Weekend Shipping is by our Economy Route (3-6 working days) - but then, you're not paying for it!
When is it available?
The Free Weekend Shipping offer runs from Friday evenings (about 9pm) to Monday mornings (about 8am), inclusive.
What is your fax number?
Our fax number is 01837 53992 - you can use this to send us prescriptions. (Its also written on the bottom of the prescription for we email out!).
Do I need to register on MyVetMeds to place an order?
How do I place an order on MyVetMeds?
What methods of payment do you accept on MyVetMeds?
How much does delivery cost?
Delivery is charged according to weight and order value and the options for delivery methods will be given when you checkout. If you order over £55 you get free delivery, with some exceptions (but please read our "When will my order be dispatched/arrive?" question also).
For most orders, the "Economy" shipping is £2.70, "Standard" is £3.99 and "Express" is between £8.16 and £15.99, depending on weight and volume.
If your order is particularly heavy (over 25kg), there may be a Heavy Order surcharge, depending on the size of the order.
Why does my item show up as being heavier than it really is?
Because Royal Mail now use a volumetric system to charge us, all items are assigned a volumetric/gross weight value; this takes into account large, bulky but lightweight items that Royal Mail (and therefore our shipping system) treats as if they were heavier than they actually are.
Are the items I am ordering in stock?
We always check if the item you want is in stock before charging your card and if we have any problems, we will give you a call about alternatives or a refund if we cannot provide the items you want.
When will my order be dispatched/arrive?
We aim to dispatch all orders within 24 hours. Orders received before 6pm will normally be dispatched next working day. Orders placed by 9am on a Saturday will usually be dispatched on the following Monday; if placed after this time, we will normally dispatch on the Tuesday.
Unfortunately, we do not currently offer a same day dispatch service for most items; those we can dispatch same day will be marked.
Next Day/Special/Express services only relate to the delivery service (from door to door) and not order processing times.
If you order a prescription product, we cannot dispatch until the completed prescription is returned to us. After the completed prescription is returned to us, your order will usually be dispatched next day, provided it is received before 6pm.
There is an optional Saturday Delivery service available for some items; items selected for Saturday Delivery will be dispatched on the next Friday. If an item is in stock and is ordered on a Friday, it will be dispatched that day; if it is not in stock, it will be dispatched the next Friday unless otherwise requested.
Refrigerated delivery items will be sent by Royal Main Special Delivery and do not qualify for the free delivery over £80 option. You will get free delivery when you spend over £100 and add a refrigerated product.
Heavy or bulky items will be dispatched by a courier service - these usually take 3-4 working days from order to arrive. If you're not happy with the service received by a courier, please let us know and we'll endeavour to improve matters!
We can dispatch most items to EU countries, and some to countries farther abroad - please phone us on +44 1237 422 091 to discuss international delivery options. Unfortunately, mostinternational deliveries do not qualify for free delivery at this time.
Who runs this site and how do I contact them?
MyVetMeds has been designed to allow you as a client to have access to competitively priced veterinary medicines sourced from only trusted UK sources with UK licensed products made available.
We can also pass on significant discounts by buying products directly from source! However, we’re always very careful only to supply safe, UK legal medicines; and to abide by all UK laws and regulations.After all, we’re owned and run by fully qualified, experienced UK vets!
You can find out more about who runs this site or contact us by following the links on the right hand side of this page
I want to know more about MyVetMeds points.
You can find out more about MyVetMeds points by clicking the link on the right hand side. Please note, Reward Points are not usually valid for orders placed by telephone - the Reward Points on your packing slip will show you how many Points you would have earn if you had ordered online.
Reward Points, if awarded, for telephone orders are only valid for 6 months
How can I return my order if I decide its not what I want?
You have the right to cancel your order at any time within 7 days from the time when you received your order (but see below for exceptions).
You then have to get the goods back to us, and we'll refund or replace the item(s) on receipt, including our original shipping cost. The returned goods have to be of saleable quality - you are responsible for them until they arrive back with us. If you choose a replacement, it has to be an item of the same of less cost, in which case we'll refund the difference. If you wan't something more expensive, thats fine - we'll ring you to take payment for the extra.
However, there are some things you can't return:
Items that have been personalised or made to your specification
Items that are likely to have perished
Enzovax and Toxovax
Veterinary Medicines - unfortunately, we're not by Law allowed to accept returned medicines except to correct a dispatch error or in response to an official recall.
To learn more, see Section 8 of the Terms and Conditions.
What are your site policies and terms?
You can find our site policies by clicking the link on the right hand side. You will also find a link to our our security and privacy policies there.
What is the Vet Directory?
What is the Symptom Guide?
Where can I chat about my animals and share problems, discussions and stories with vets?
I have an animal with a problem or I have a question for a vet, what can I do?
You can tweet one of our vets (you can find our twitter feed by clicking News & Blog) or you can use the symptom guide to get help with your animal’s symptoms. If in doubt you should always get advice from your vet. Please note:This website is intended as a guide only. It helps you to decide how quickly you should seek veterinary attention for your pet. If you are in any doubt over your pet's condition, telephone your vet for advice. It is intended for use in the UK.
If you require information or advice regarding a specific product, please use the "Q&A" section on the product page; or telephone us.
What does the “Re-order” option do in My Account?
What are “Order Subscriptions” in My Account?
Why are my animals or vets listed in My Account and how can I change them?
What are the expiry or use-by dates on the stock? Are you selling it cheap because it's short-dated?
We do not usually supply products with less than 3 months to go before it expires, and usually its 6 months or a lot longer!
If for whatever reason we can only get hold of stock with a shorter date than this, we will try to get in touch with you and let you know before we dispatch your order, so you can decide whether or not you want it.
What are MyVetMeds points?
You get 1 point for every £1 to spend on products across our site (excluding carriage). There will be lots of opportunities for you to earn extra points, keep an eye out in your newsletter for details! Once you've registered with us, you will automatically earn reward points on every purchase. Please note, points will be credited to your account once your order has been dispatched.
If we run a double rewards point promotion, you will essentially get 4p in points for every £1 you spend.
Points have no monetary value, and are valid for 12 months.
How much are reward points worth?
Each reward point is worth 2p.
How do I redeem MyVetMeds points?
When you checkout, you'll be given the option to redeem the points you've collected or save them for another time. However, remember that points are only valid for 12 months!
How do I check how many myvetmeds points I currently have?
You can check your points tally simply by clicking the 'My Account' link at the top and logging into your account
What's the catch?
There is no catch! You can redeem the points you've earned at any point and they will never expire! Please note, reward points cannot be converted into cash. You must also be logged into your account to ensure you earn point each time. Points earned exclude the cost of postage and are calculated to whole point values. You earn 1 point for every £1 spent.